Kenya : Laikipia

Mount Kenya is the second highest mountain in East Africa and is especially beautiful and popular for high altitude walking and climbing. Despite being on the equator the highest peaks are snow clad all year round and a rich variety of alpine flora is found. There are a number of private ranches and wildlife reserves in the area with rhino sanctuaries at Solio and Lewa Downs and the possibility of horse riding, walking safaris and night drives. There are large concentrations of game including elephant, rhino and all the plains game and their predators - the big cats. There is a very high standard of accommodation in small and exclusive lodges.

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Quick links:
Borana	Il Ngwesi and Tassia Lodges
Lewa Downs	Ol Malo
Sabuk	Loisaba

Borana
Borana ranch has been in the Dyer family for three generations and they have built a beautiful lodge on the side of a hill with fantastic views across the plains to the mountains of the northern frontier. The lower rooms and the pool overlook a dam where you can watch elephants cooling down in the water in the heat of the day and game coming down to drink. The higher rooms have views of Mt Kenya, Africa's second highest mountain.

The rooms are made of local stone and wood with high thatched roofs and furnished with indigenous wood furniture and local fabrics. They have huge windows so you can see the view from your bed and your bath.

The dining and sitting areas are homely with huge log fires and plenty of books and games. The food is excellent with plenty of salads and freshly baked breads and all the produce comes from the farm.

You can go out on game drives or walk and can see amongst other game elephant, kudu, leopard and buffalo. Bimby will take you out riding amongst the plains game with spectacular views of Mt Kenya. You can visit the farm, which has its own dairy and a tannery, which employs the disabled from the local community.

There is also the opportunity to go on day trips by plane to Lake Turkana with spectacular low level flying over the Matthews Mountains and the northern frontier. You can also fly around the peaks of Mt Kenya with fantastic low-level views of the glaciers.

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lodges	view	lower room

the pool	view over the dam	Mount Kenya

room	sitting area

Il Ngwesi and Tassia Community Lodges
The Dyer family is also involved with local community projects and has helped to establish a unique project in the setting up of two group lodges set on community land adjacent to Borana.

Il Ngwesi and Tassia are both beautifully situated set on the side of large kopjes with amazing views across the plains to the mountains. The lodges have been built with donor money so that all the money paid for accommodation goes directly to the upkeep of the lodge and its vehicle and back into the local community for schools and healthcare. The local communities now see the importance of the wildlife for tourism and that overgrazing ruins the habitat that the game needs to survive. They have moved their cattle from the area and have controlled the poaching. This in turn has been beneficial to the adjacent ranches of Lewa Downs and Borana as there is a bigger and safer area for the game to live.

The lodges have been imaginatively built around and incorporate the rocks of the kopjes. The rooms are open to the views and cooled by the breeze off the plains. It is warmer than the higher ranches of Borana and Lewa and it will take a bit of time for the bush to rejuvenate and the game to return in large numbers but the views are spectacular. There are huge numbers of birds and it is fantastic walking country and for the energetic a 3000-foot hill to climb behind the camp. In the heat of the day you can cool down in the pool or relax by the bar. These lodges are definitely worth a visit when staying at either Borana or Lewa.

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Tassia	rooms	the view

the pool	the bar

Wilderness Trails on Lewa Downs
Lewa Downs is one of Kenya's original ranches and has been the Craig family home since 1924. It is set in lovely country with a marvellous feeling of space and views across to Mt Kenya. A great diversity of wildlife exists at Lewa Downs. You can go out on foot with an armed guide, get close to the animals on horse back or in a vehicle and at the end of your expedition you return to your comfortable cottage and a swim in the pool. You can also visit the nearby Rhino sanctuary and camel treks can be arranged. Horse Safaris can also be arranged for more experience riders, you will stay at the lodge but have a private guide who will take you out on longer rides and explore the area.

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Lewa Downs	sitting area	giraffes

cottage	camel treks	horse safari

Ol Malo
Ol Malo, home of Colin and Rocky Francombe lies on the edge of Kenya's Northeast province and is one of the most remarkable sites. The swimming pool set into the edge of the cliff is unique, from it there is a vista for miles terminating in a distant view of Mount Kenya. The three cottages are built from rock, on the cliff edge and are finished to the highest standard with the beds and furniture made from indigenous wood and all have a clear view of the water hole and salt lick in the valley below. Each has a stunning bathroom with amazing views while lying in your bath. Sitting on the verandah with an evening drink you can watch the animals coming into the water hole below you and listen to the baboons barking from the surrounding cliffs. Walks with Colin are a fascinating experience as he will teach you about the local Samburu culture, the animals and the flora and fauna of this beautiful area which he has made his home. An unusual adventure, camel trekking, can also be arranged.

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Ol Malo	pool	bed

bathroom	sitting area

Sabuk
Sabuk is a beautifully constructed lodge overlooking a gorge and the Ewaso Niro River. There are six rooms made from indigenous wood and stone and different from the other lodges in the area in that they are open fronted. You lie in bed under your mosquito net and can listen to the sounds of the night. Two of the rooms have open bathrooms and one in which you can lie in your bath and look at the stars. Each of the rooms has its own unique features and has been carefully thought out by Simon and Kerry, with plenty of sitting areas to relax in and beds with views. The Samburu staff are extremely friendly and helpful and smart in their traditional shukas.

You can go on walks and game drives, there is a limited amount of game in the area but it migrates through depending on the time of year and the rains and there is plenty to see and learn about this beautiful area.

Sabuk is close to Loisaba and Ol Malo and is the base camp for their camel safaris You go out with a train of camels and can ride or walk to your overnight camp. These camel walks can be joined with going to stay at the star beds on Loisaba.

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Sabuk	Ewaso Niro river	room

open bathroom	sitting area	camel trek

Loisaba
Loisaba is set on a ridge with what seems a never-ending view across the plains to Mt Kenya in the distance. The seven rooms and dining and sitting room are spread along the ridge all have decks so you can enjoy the view. The living room is cosy with a roaring log fire for those cool evenings and huge chairs and sofas to relax with your evening drink. Behind the lodge is a large pool and lovely gardens with a tennis court.

You can also stay in the luxury house set apart from the lodge with its own staff and cliff edge swimming pool. there are two bedrooms and a huge sitting and dining area with a bar and balcony on the first floor.

The ranch has a mixture of landscapes with the Ewaso Nyiro river with its riverine habitats for game and birds and the high plateau with large numbers of resident plains game. You can go horse riding or on camel rides or on walks as well as game drives and in the right season you can go rafting on the river.

A unique and special addition to Loisaba are the Starbeds. The original starbeds are set on a kopje overlooking a dam and opposite some towering cliffs. There are three rooms which are basically platforms set up on stilts, partly covered by a roof and in the evening your huge double beds are pulled out from under the roof so that you sleep out under the stars. You can hear the baboons barking in the cliffs and the leopard calling in the hills around you. The Starbeds are run as a separate lodge, with its own kitchens and dining area and you can walk or ride down to them from the lodge. The Samburu guides are entertaining and very good company and full of stories of Samburu culture.

The second Starbeds are actually set on community land adjacent to Loisaba and overlook the Ewasi Nyiro river. The community run the lodge and take revenue from the guests staying there. Again the rooms are on stilts, high over the river and like the other Starbeds have en-suite flushing loos and hot bucket showers. In two such different locations it is worth while staying in each of the Starbeds and walking or riding between them. There is nothing like sleeping out under the african stars and with the added luxury of sleeping in a comfortable bed is a must on your african safari.

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the view	pool	Ewaso Niro river

camel rides	Starbeds	dining area