Mozambique : Pemba

The magnificent Quirimbas Archipelago in Cabo Delgado Province, Northern Mozambique, is a captivating area which has existed in splendid isolation from the outside world for generations. Only small fishing communities inhabit the area; and with a chain of 32 coral islands which stretch for 400kms along the Indian ocean coast this is one of the most remote and untouched areas on the East African coast. Sustainable tourism is growing slowly with only a few of the islands (so far) being developed with small, exclusive lodges. Along the mainland and on the islands there are vast empty stretches of beaches and just off the coast are some of the world's richest coral reefs for diving and snorkelling.

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island	local fishermen	sailing the Indian Ocean

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Vamizi Island Lodge
Vamizi Island Lodge is situated on the northern side of the private Maluane Island about 5km from the Mozambique mainland. There are only ten thatched beach houses, each with its own large living room, bathroom and breezy veranda, all secluded from each other and look out to sea from the shade of the forest that forms the centre of the island. The emphasis of Vamizi Island Lodge is on space and openness, with large rooms and high ceilings and has been designed to complement the environment and to cause as little damage to it as possible. The construction uses almost entirely local materials - timber, thatch and stone all come from the mainland or the islands themselves - thus providing help to the local economy.

The bathrooms have a solid slab of marble forming the wall of the shower, and hand-carved screens, which provide the privacy, and aesthetic detail of a Zanzibar palace. The bedrooms have king-size four-poster beds with freestanding frames draped in beautiful natural muslin mosquito nets. The outside decks and private beaches have a selection of loungers, swinging beds and local 'Swahili day beds' to chose from. Activities include big game fishing, salt-water fly-fishing, mountain bike trails, bird walks, dhow cruises and private picnics, as well as scuba diving and snorkelling over some of the most pristine coral reefs of the Indian Ocean. Vamizi is undoubtedly a remote and special place to stay; it's not an easy area to get to but Vamizi has its own plane which flies to and from Dar es Salaam.

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the beach	beach house veranda	beach houses

bedroom	the island	view from the bedroom

Quilálea
Quilálea is a remote and beautiful lodge on an island which is part of Mozambique's Quirimbas Archipelago. It's a malaria free haven of luxury and beauty with the highest degree of seclusion on an entirely private and uninhabited tropical island. It is also one of the most biodiverse marine areas in the world. Dugongs graze in seagrass meadows, fish eagles perch in tall mangroves, turtles nest on white beaches, and humpback whales shelter their young in Quilálea's deep channel.

There are 9 beautifully crafted villas, . 45 squares metres in size with an antique stylized power shower. The enormous windows let in the breeze and the view. Natural rock walls, makuti thatch, and colonial ceiling fans keep you cool by day. Furniture is crafted from indigenous teak and mahogany by local carpenters in the creole Muani style. A king-size bed draped in a white mosquito net completes the African/Arabian styling. Set on a peninsula at the north end of the island, the restaurant offers beautiful ocean views and the Mozambican cuisine is influenced by Portuguese and Goan spice. The bar and the small pool are a relaxing refuge in the heat of the day.

The dive boat started life as a traditional Portuguese fishing vessel and has been remodelled with a wide afterdeck allowing freedom of movement for whale watching or exploration of the bay. Many species of game fish can be caught and the Southern current passes near the coast here and billfish can be taken within shouting distance of shore; local fishermen sometimes catch them on hand lines trolled behind dugout canoes. I was proudly shown a sail fish caught by a fisherman almost as big as the canoe he was in. Activities include diving (some of the best is only 20m off shore), snorkelling, fly fishing, surf casting, sport fishing, canoeing, island exploration, dhow sailing, swimming, and bird watching. You can also go on excursions to Ibo Island and tours and cultural visits to the mainland.

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Ibo Island Lodge
Ibo Island lodge combines relaxation on a palm fringed island with the history and culture of this remote and unknown area of Mozambique. The lodge is made up of three magnificent mansions, each over a century old, with walls a metre thick and high lofty ceilings. Located right on the prime waterfront site, where romantic dhows sail out to sea on each high tide, the lodge offers a classic island experience, and with just fourteen luxury rooms assures guests of exceptional service and flexibility.

There is plenty to do here: relax, dive, swim, snorkel, kayak, explore or photograph. In this part of the world, ancient sailing dhows are the only form of transportation. Experience Ibo and her gentle islanders and you will witness a way of life that hasn't changed for hundreds of years.

There is no beach in front of the lodge but you will be taken at low tide out to a special sand bar for swimming and sunbathing. Historical tours of the town and a visit to the local silversmiths are a must. Ibo is a relaxing place but meeting the local people and learning about the culture of the island makes this a very special destination.

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bedroom	the old fort	dining on the terrace

lodge	the old fort	pool

Guludo
Guludo is an eco-friendly community lodge on an isolated stretch of beach on the Mozambique mainland. Set within the Quirimbas National Park, it combines the beach and sea with the forest and wildlife of the African bush. The lodge is simple but beautiful, with 9 bandas (cottages) set privately above the beach. Each banda has raised king size beds from where you can see the sea, and the private veranda has a hammock and sun loungers perfect for lazy afternoons. From the lodge you can enjoy sunset dhow cruises, village walks, bushwalks and 'beauty on the beach' spa treatments as well as fantastic diving and snorkelling. What is particularly special about Guludo, is that it is involved in a number of successful community projects, from mosquito net donation to education. Farside Africa supports the lodge's malaria project, donating US$6 per guest per night, which buys a mosquito net for a child or pregnant mother in the community.

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banda	view from a banda	banda interior

beach	bird's eye view	Guludo school