Namibia : Skeleton Coast and Kaokoland
The desolate Skeleton Coast gets its name from the bleached whale and seal bones which covered the shore when the whaling industry was still active, and the shipwrecks there caused by the unseen rocks in the fog. The vast, coastal wilderness of the Skeleton Coast and the rugged mountains of semi-desert Kaokoland at the northern tip are Namibia at its most remote. You can get a sense of this barren coastline from the south self-driving. If you want to conquer its remotest northern corners you need to fly in to Kaokoland to stay at one of the two exclusive camps there. The ultimate way to do it is to take an amazing 3-4 night flying safari which works its way up the coast in mobile camps to areas unreachable by vehicle.
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Southern Skeleton Coast
This is accessible when self-driving from Swakopmund north to Damaraland and you can take a walk on the beach to get a sense of its wildness. If you look, there are signs of life with ancient desert-adapted plant species as well as wildlife including penguins, seals, snakes, insects and jackal. At Cape Cross, you’ll find an isolated stretch of rocky shore covered by a huge (and rather smelly!) Cape fur seal colony, which, in November, is swelled by young pups.
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Kaokoland
In the more northern reaches of Kaokoland, you will explore the soaring sand dunes, plains and mountains with your guide and have the privileged opportunity to meet the Himba people and learn about tribal customs and desert survival techniques of these indigenous semi-nomadic pastoralists.
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Wilderness Skeleton Coast Camp
You realise the remoteness of the skeleton coast camp when you are approaching the airstrip and all you can see in every direction are mountains, sand dunes and never ending desert cut only by the skeletal fingers of dried up river courses. In one of these river courses, set on an island, is the Wilderness Skeleton Coast Camp. It is a rare oasis in this harsh but beautiful desert and must be one of the worlds most remote luxury tented camps, it is perfectly hidden in the river bed and until you are on top of it you wouldn't know it was there.
The six tents are extremely comfortable with solid teak furniture ensuite bathrooms with flushing toilets and hot and cold running water, which is a real luxury when the water has to be transported into camp from a well outside the park. There is a lovely open-air dining room, which is set under a magnificent ancient lead wood tree. Its branches have intertwined to provide a perfect canopy as a shelter from the sun.
This is the only camp within the 300,000-hectare concession area within the Skeleton coast national park so there is no chance of you meeting anyone else when you are out on drives. Your day is different to the usual safari in that you will have breakfast at the camp and head out for the day to explore the area with a picnic lunch and arrive back in the mid to late afternoon. It is a wild, desolate and incredibly fragile environment and there is plenty to do and see. Chris and his guides are excellent and fascinating in their explanations of the geology of the area and about the animals and plants, which have adapted to the harsh environment. Your days will be filled with visiting roaring sand dunes, seeing vast multicoloured plains, towering canyons and eroded mountains, salt pans, freshwater springs and huge seal colonies along the coast line where you walk and see whale skulls and bones and pick about in the flotsam which washes up on this wild shoreline. Chris has a close relationship with one of the local Himba chiefs who invites guests to his village and gives a fascinating and natural glimpse of local life.
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You will be amazed at the amount of wildlife you can see in this desolate wilderness, such as oryx, ostrich, springbok, jackal and maybe hyena, giraffe, elephant and cheetah but its not really a place for game viewing so think of it as a bonus. The Skeleton Coast is a unique place to visit and is fascinating but be prepared for long bumpy drives and if you want to see animals around every corner it probably isn't for you but the scenery is out of this world and I would recommend it to anyone.
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Serra Cafema Camp
Serra Cafema Camp is located in the extreme north-west of Namibia and has to be the most remote camp in Southern Africa. For those who appreciate truly wild places, the journey to Serra Cafema is one of the most exciting in all of Africa - the flight in takes guests over some incredible scenery and the drive from the camps Hartmann Valley airstrip through open grasslands and two high mountain ranges, culminates in a dramatic and breathtaking descent into Serra Cafema Camp. The camps Portuguese name comes from the mountains to the north that dominate the skyline. This region is populated by the Himba people who are some of the last true nomadic people in Africa.
The Kunene River is the only permanent source of water in the whole region and the river creates a lush oasis along it's banks surrounded by rugged mountains and sand dunes. Under shady Albida trees you will find a small, rustic and peaceful camp comprising of fully furnished Meru tents with en-suite bathroom facilities. The camp's six tents are raised off the ground and the camp has a small swimming pool, dining room and bar. Located just inland from the Atlantic Ocean and the Skeleton Coast the cool winds that blow from the ocean help to keep the camp cool even in summer.
You will spend time in the breath-taking landscape scenes of the Hartmann Valley, to the south of the camp, with herds of springbok, ostrich and even leopard. You will traverse sand dunes on 4x4 safaris and boat or fish on the Kunene River that becomes the focus for the area. On the boat trips, one can watch Kunene crocodiles basking on the river banks. Walking trails in the remote mountain and river valleys will always be a highlight for those who enjoy foot safaris. Cafema is often visited by the native Ovahimba families who live in the nearby vicinity which give the guests the chance to learn about their lifestyles and traditions.
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